Older recipes for beef bourguignon or coq au vin, two Burgundian classics, call for a whole bottle of “decent Red Burgundy”. These days that would set you back €20 or more, which seems very extravagant. I love a drop of fino sherry in clear soups and darker sauces or a very decent glass of amontillado sherry in a trifle. I think it is essential to use a glass of white wine in a risotto, and a beef stew is improved greatly by a decent glass of red wine. I believe that the style of wine matters as much as the quality, although I wouldn’t use the cheapest bottle of plonk for cooking. In truth, I usually add a glass of whatever I happen to be drinking into the dish I am cooking . My rule of thumb is if you wouldn’t drink it, don’t cook with it. I find the most important culinary decision to make is which glass of wine you drink while cooking, essential for creativity and inspiration.
